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Thursday January 1, 1970 12:00 AM
 
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In Which Someone Runs at One Time More Than I’ve Run in My Whole Life

We spent last week with my whole immediate family, which amounts to only six and a half people, in beautiful Chamonix, high in the French Alps. The occasion for this happy gathering was so that my brother could run the CCC, or Courmayeur Champex Chamonix, one of the races of the famous Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc. It’s 63 miles long, over two full marathons, but with 3.7 MILES of elevation change. In short, it would be an insane hike for a normal person to do in a week. Cat and I did what we do best to help him prepare for this insane endeavor: we cooked lots of good food. Stir fry, Greek salad, pasta with my dad’s famous meat sauce, tartiflette, a local dish of potatoes and ridiculous amounts of melted cheese, and copious amounts of wine to wash it all down. The wine part was less of a race preparation measure and more of a sanity keeping measure in having 3 generations cooped up in a small house for a week.

Badass Rowan

Rowan, the half person, is my awesome 1 year old nephew. He loved all the attention afforded by lots of family and limited space, and especially loved us making funny faces at him and feeding him things we weren’t supposed to. He obviously pulled these glasses off nanoseconds after this picture was taken.

On the day of the race, we woke up early and drove Chris through the 7 mile long Mont Blanc Tunnel, to Courmayeur, a town on the Italian side of the mountain. We sat in a small café and drank coffee to the amplified sounds of annoying hype men in 3 languages and bad techno music, and cheered Chris on as he attempted to empty his bowels before the race. cccalex---5- The race had 1900 participants leaving in 3 waves, Chris being placed in the first wave as he’d been included in the prestigious list of “favorites”. After three national anthems and a warning that the weather might be really shitty, they were off at a faster pace than I run my 2 mile jogs at. We cheered him on and then made our way home to reload the tracking website all day long. While we relaxed, he ran, and ran, and took some cool pictures, and ran some more:

He seems to be taking it well.

He seems to be taking it well.

A rest stop high in the mountains.

A rest stop high in the mountains.

A poor soul had to be rescued by helicopter.

A poor soul had to be rescued by helicopter.

We electronically followed him do the most grueling thing of his life from a couch, eating a nice lunch, relaxing, and taking copious naps. He hovered around 80th place, making headway on the uphills and falling back on the downhills. He told me after the race that “Those fucking euros are fucking crazy on the downhills!” which was funny because I thought everyone participating was fucking crazy regardless of nationality, including my dear brother. In the evening we prepared a picnic and camped out to meet him at two of the later checkpoints that were accessible by road.

Chris was happy to see me, but especially Rowan, who's on my back at this point.

Chris was happy to see me, but especially Rowan, who’s on my back at this point.

We met Chris and gave him some snacks, cheered him on, and drove to the next point we could meet him at, when the weather turned horrible. Dark, rainy, and in the clouds, he approached the last few hills.

Beautiful views of the weather going south.

Beautiful views of the weather going south.

At the last stop, we had our picnic, drank more wine, and milled about with the other supporters waiting for their loved ones. Chris showed up later than planned, and all he had time to tell me was, “I’m so ready to be done with this shit…” as he jogged toward the last mountain. We drove home and did more internet refreshes before heading to the finish line. I drove the car as close as I could get, crossing barriers and going backward down one way streets to avoid my brother taking any extra steps I could once the race was finished. He arrived 15 minutes before we were expecting him, limping slightly and saying “that was the stupidest fucking thing I’ve ever done”, finishing the race in 15 hours, 35 minutes, and 47 seconds. He got 63rd place, which is amazing for someone who doesn’t train at altitude and had never run a race that long.

Holy shit, brother, you're amazing.

Holy shit, brother, you’re amazing.

The next day, he was understandably more excited about his performance, but said he doesn’t expect to run another race that difficult for a long long time, if ever.

 

Working title for my next post: I’m Not Funny Enough to Come Up with Anything Good. Cat, HAAAALP

You Just Have to Show That You Care About it More Than I Do

Cat is obviously the funny in our relationship. Anyone reading this knows that. She’s also a better writer, which is why I’ve let my blogging ambitions be waylaid and have contented myself with doing all the driving to the interesting places Cat then blogs about. And that has been a lot of driving.

Recently, though, Cat has decided to learn to drive a stick. I know, right? I told her that probably something like half of cars in the US are sticks, so she argued in the way I taught her: she Googled it. It turns out it was something like 6% of cars sold last year. I’m sure those numbers were different in 1984, the year my trusty Volvo and I came into this world together, but I digress…

Well, we’re in France now, where automatic cars are still only something like 10% of the market, and we (I) didn’t want to pay the American tourist tax on an already expensive rental to get an automatic transmission. Plus, what better way for her to learn than on the clutch of a rental car?

So, yesterday, with nary 10 minutes of instruction on a back road, she was ready to give the open road a try. So she drove for an hour straight, up and down hills on windy roads, in and out of towns, around roundabouts… I was honestly impressed.

Which brings me to her willpower. She has proven time and again that she can and will do anything she puts her mind to. A week ago we visited Mont St. Michel, and I was trying my best to get a panorama picture of her, the monastery, and a rainbow that had fortuitously sprouted up as we were walking toward the monastery. Everything lined up perfectly, except for one thing.

Awesome picture with crapface

She had made a terrible face for a picture with ample warning to make a decent one. She immediately defended herself when I brought it up, “I can’t help it! I always make terrible faces in pictures!”

“BULLSHIT!” I said, with more force than I would have been able to muster before meeting Cat. Back in those sad days before we had met, I thought quiet confidence was the best way to convey an idea. That was, of course, until Cat proved that she wouldn’t listen to a single thing I said unless it was said with vehemence.

Since I have learned well, I went on a brief yet passionate diatribe about how she could most definitely make reasonable faces, that she really had no reason not to, and that I was tired of her ruining pictures.

Much better

So in every picture since then, she has made very cute and reasonable faces. When I mentioned it a few days later, she laughed. “You really just have to show that you care about the thing more than I do, and I’m happy to do it.” Now I just have to figure out how to apply that to getting her playing video games with me.

Such a good face!

Another reasonable face!

 

Mont Saint-Michel is beautiful, and also overrun with tourists like ourselves. Still more than worth the visit, though. If you do go, eat a crepe at the Sirene restaurant, tucked in above a souvenir shop, with awesome cider and reasonable prices compared to the rest of the place.

Beautiful Mont Saint-Michel

– N

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Friday June 27, 2025 10:39 AM
 

RSVP deadline is past

Do you ‘get’ Dalí?

Cat has officially taken her longest vacation in over half a decade. Yes, it’s only been a week. Her work ethic is the kind of thing Europeans furrow brows and shake heads at. You can tell she was nearing burnout by this picture I snapped of her during a work videoconference just before our break:

Underwear work

Business up top, party down below.

In an effort to help recharge her batteries, I’ve been a most gentlemanly traveling companion. I’ve been doing all the ordering, asking, talking, paying. I mean, I speak French. She doesn’t. She’s been making up for that by repeating that she speaks some Spanish from the SEVEN YEARS she studied it.

I've even been carrying all the heavy shit.

I’ve even been mostly carrying all the heavy shit. With ice cream as fuel, of course.

So we arrived in España after a beautiful few days in Collioure, maybe my favorite town in the world. We had a couple hour layover until the next train left. That’s when I realized that in her seven years of Spanish, she learned how to conjugate dozens of irregular verbs, but not how to ask for the bill at a bar. We ended up with an extra round of beers, which in hindsight wasn’t such a bad thing.

It reminds me of the month I spent traveling around Mexico with my dear friend, Matt Acosta. Matt is mustachioed and half-Mexican, but never learned a lick of Spanish. Every single person we met would go off on tirades of Spanish toward my unsuspecting comrade, after which he would awkwardly point to me and somehow nonverbally communicate that my Franco-American ass was their best chance at getting a few words across.

It goes to show that a bit of conversational spanish followed by practice can be a lot more helpful than years of rote learning and testing. I found this reddit AMA from last year about learning languages fascinating. Alas, I digress. We made it to the Teatro-Museo Dalì in Figueras, where we saw some wonderful art.

Fairly tame, but a bit weird.

Fairly tame, but a bit weird.

Getting weirder...

Getting weirder…

As we walked through the museum, as the weirdness reached a mind boggling crescendo, Cat stopped and asked me seriously, “Do you get it?”

“I don’t think I ever ‘get’ art, but I like it.” I replied. This turned out to be the best joke I’d ever told, as Cat actually laughed out loud. The best I’d ever gotten before was slightly a stronger exhale through her nose. I can’t express how gratifying that was.

Weirdest. Seriously. What the fuck.

Weirdest. Seriously. What the fuck.

Thankfully, after a couple days here in Spain, Cat’s Spanish has been coming back, and mine is even improving a bit. People actually smile at our efforts before immediately reverting to English!

Get it?

Get it?

Finally, a Recipe: Poulet Ballotine de la Dordogne

We were taken to a beautiful store filled with the local fat of the land, where we acquired some sausage and a whole chicken, head and all. We decided to debone and stuff the chicken, a trick I learned much like I’ve learned nearly everything in my life, via internet searches and practice.


[youtube=http://youtu.be/kAekQ5fzfGM?rel=0]

Jacques Pepin on how to debone a chicken

PSA: I’ve deboned half a dozen chickens, and this was my first time doing so with a dull knife. It wasn’t fun. With $20 (a steel and a stone), a little technique, and some elbow grease, you can sharpen all your non-serrated knives easily at home. Once you’re used to using sharp knives you’ll never go back!

Poulet Ballotine de la Dordogne (Chicken stuffed with figs and pork sausage)
Prep time: 30 mins
Cook time: 1 hour

raw chicken, sausage, figs, shallots, and garlic.

The Fat of the Land


Ingredients

  • One whole chicken with giblets
  • One pound of bulk sausage
  • Ten fresh figs
  • Three shallots
  • Three cloves of garlic
  • Salt and Pepper
Deboning the chicken

Deboning the chicken with a very dull knife.

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F / 200°C.
  2. Roughly chop the figs.
  3. Cook the figs in a small pot over medium high heat until sticky and reduced.
  4. Add diced shallots, garlic, and chicken liver to the fig mixture, stir, and turn off the heat to cool.
  5. Debone the chicken. Reserve the bones for stock.
  6. Liberally salt and pepper the inside of the chicken.
  7. Spread the cooled fig mixture all over the inside of the chicken.
  8. Place the bulk sausage in the middle of the chicken and wrap the chicken around it.
  9. Flip it over, bake in a baking dish for one hour.

cooked chicken

This chicken was really delicious. The taste of the terroir really came out in the locally farmed ingredients and in the figs from the garden. Don’t be afraid to try your hand at deboning a chicken, and let your imagination run wild with the fillings!

Our tablescape.

Our tablescape.

France: Not Gross

Great news: the nine hours of jet lag have finally subsided! We fell asleep at midnight last night and woke up at 8am. Now that that’s out of the way, we can devote 100% of our energy to the real reasons we’re here: eating food and looking at old stuff.

Yesterday, in an effort to appease Cat and her never-ending quest to not cook and eat every meal at home, we went on a little stroll downtown Toulouse and had lunch outside the marché de Carmes.

Lunch at Marché de Carmes with wine.

Of course we’re having wine with lunch.

On the food front, ingredients here are better. Of course the wine and cheese are cheap, plentiful, and delicious – that’s to be expected. The thing is, everything here tastes better! Soft boiled eggs are eggier. Butter is unpasteurized and delicious. Much like their human counterparts, French chickens are about half the size of American chickens and obviously spend more time outside.

Chicken roasting in a moulinex rotisserie.

I believe this rotisserie belonged to my grandmother.

There’s nothing like the sound of this rotisserie clicking away as it slowly turns, and the smell of the chicken roasting, to bring me back to my childhood. Thanks, Mom, for this most excellent Proustian trigger that puts madeleines and tea to shame! French chickens are a fair bit tougher and less fatty than the caged soulless chickens we’re unfortunately used to, so I brined this one for a day and stuffed it with shallots and a lemon before roasting. It was awesome.

This post is my first effort to make this blog about something other than jokes. I plan on posting a recipe or two soon, so comment with your favorite French dish you’d like to see us make! This weekend we’re heading to the medieval walled city of Carcassonne to get our old stuff fix, so stay tuned.

Why a Duck and a Potato?

I’m glad I asked. The potato originated in the New World, just like me and Cat. Once discovered, it quickly traveled across the globe, expanding the culinary experience of those it encountered. Such is our hope for duckandpotato.com

When the potato was having trouble gaining popularity in 18th century France, Louis XVI planted a plot of potatoes and set his most elite guard to watch over it. The local peasants, thinking their king must be keeping something good from them, stole some of the plants and started to grow them themselves. I actually employed a similar strategy when Cat and I first met. Anyway, from that point forward, the potato spread across the French countryside like wildfire.

This might just be Louis XVI receiving a potato.

This might be Louis XVI receiving a potato.

 

“In the course of human history, the potato has been a much greater treasure than gold.”

– Michael Pollan

“How many potatoes does it take to kill an irishman?” I asked Cat as we discussed the name of our blog.

“None,” she quipped, “and I already know that joke. You already told it to me. Why can’t you be funnier?” she asked rhetorically for the hundredth time.

So be it. If my sense of humor isn’t going to pull my weight on our shared blog, then I’ll have to make up for it elsewhere. Technology skills. A computer brain that can remember everything except where I left that damn coffee mug. The ability to speak French in a land where people really don’t speak anything else. And if those don’t cut it at some point in the future, the ability and willingness learn new stuff.

The duck, a migratory water bird, has always been my favorite animal. The word duck comes from the old english duce, which means to dive. Ducks can dive underwater, fly long distances, float happily, and even waddle from place to place. Some ducks are nomadic, seeking out rain. I happen to enjoy all of those things.

Also, maybe even foremost, ducks are delicious. If there is but one passion I have found in this life, it’s cooking and sharing food. And if there’s anywhere in this world that knows how to cook duck, it’s the the sud-ouest of France.

So it seems appropriate for us to kick off this site with a month long trip to this duck adoring region of the world. One week to go, and more to come, so please keep checking back!